Zero Clearance Circular Saw T-Square


Shop projects are always rewarding. Especially when they are extremely easy. This is a simple t-square for your circular saw that features a zero clearance base. This way you can easily line up your cut and know exactly where your blade will be.

To make this you need three scrap pieces of plywood, some screws, and glue. You can use solid wood here but I recommend using dimensional lumber for it’s increased stability. A jig like this won’t be of much use if the t-square fence twists out of shape on you. The base piece should be wider than the distance from your circular saw blade to the opposite side of the base (explained in the video). The other two pieces will make up the guide fence and the t-square fence.circular saw zero clearance tsquare

The base piece should have at least one straight long edge. Glue and screw one of your thin pieces to the side of your base piece. This thin piece should not be too tall though as it will limit the depth of cut. As long as it sticks up above the base piece by the height of your circular saw base than you should be alright. circular saw zero clearance tsquare

Next, use a square to line up the remaining piece of plywood to form a 90° fence on the bottom side of the base. Make sure this piece of wood is pretty sturdy. You don’t want to have any flex in this area. Again, use glue and screws to attach it. After that you’re pretty much done. Run the saw through the t-square to cut the zero clearance and you’re all set. Now you can use this simple and easy jig to quickly line up and crosscut wide boards. circular saw zero clearance tsquare

circular saw zero clearance tsquare

circular saw zero clearance tsquare

circular saw zero clearance tsquare

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4 COMMENTS

  1. I built several ‘zero cleareance’ jigs using 1/4 in plywood and they work great. In fact I made a small one to use in making your 2×4 bench for all the angle cuts, because it would have been to hard on my Shopsmith and I don’t have a miter saw. I just marked my 15 degree angle lines, lined up the edge of the jig and screwed it to the work piece and made my perfect (almost) cuts. I say almost because I used the wrong leg of my speed square to mark my lines and they where actually 30 degrees, so I had to recut all my mitered pieces to the proper angle. I used reclaimed lumber that cost me 0 and I used 2×6’s for the seat and back slats which worked out great. At least it made mom (wife) happy and always remember -if mom’s not happy, nobody is happy. Thanks for all the great tips and good luck with your new home and shop.

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