UPDATE After one week of use the EXACT same problem I was having with the Ridgid appeared. When raising and lowering the blade the blade shifts at the back end. Grizzly contacted me wanting the saw back in exchange for a new one of the same model that will be inspected for the issue before it leaves. I do not want to deal with that problem again so I’ll get something else. I haven’t ordered yet so I’m not 100% positive but I’m probably getting a G0690 cabinet saw that has cabinet mounted trunnions. So far I have been pretty pleased with Grizzly’s customer service with this. Here’s a video where I actually measured the deflection of the G0715P:
Just as I said when I wrote my Grizzly bandsaw article, let me start off by saying I have no affiliation with Grizzly Industrial. After a disapointing experience with a RIDGID R4512 table saw I decided to spend a little more and get something of greater quality. Grizzly has been in business for quite some time now and has a long reputation for quality tools and service after the sale. So, I purchased a Grizzly G0715P Hybrid Table Saw. To be honest, the only reason I even looked at the Grizzly table saw lineup was because of how pleased I am with my bandsaw purchase.
Grizzly G0715P Hybrid Table Saw
This isn’t a review. I won’t go over the ins and outs of this saw but rather will show you some high points and walk you through my first night with the saw. The saw and wings come in one large box on a small pallet. The fence is in it’s own box and the fence rails in their own box. With the help of an appliance dolly I was able to move this by myself.
The saw box is nothing but thick cardboard panels that really look like they can take a beating. Luckily nothing in my shipment was damaged nor did the boxes look like they were beat up at all.
The wings are packaged on top of the saw table and everything else is stored on the inside.
After removing everything from the inside of the cabinet, removing the two bolts that held it to the pallet, and placing the wings on another work surface I wanted to get the saw on my Shop Fox mobile base. This was the only part of the build I was dreading from the start. Everything I have read said to get help with this and its crazy heavy. The shipping weight from Grizzly is 416 pounds but that includes the fence boxes as well as everything else I already removed. It ended up being incredibly easy with barely a struggle. I broke the side off of the pallet in hopes to just slide it into place and put a hardwood strip across the far side of the mobile base to support one end as I walked it side to side over the base.
Because I leaned the saw on one side and walked it back and forth the process was simple.
With one side in place I lifted up the supported side and slid the hardwood strip out. I never had to pick up the entire weight of the saw this way.
Before getting into the instruction manual and proceeding with assembly I knew I was going to change up the power situation. The saw comes pre-wired for 220v operation. Before receiving the saw I planned to make an extension cord to run from the 220v range plug in the “kitchen” of my shop to the saw. I decided it would be better to eliminate one of the connection points and just run the new extension cord right to the saw switch. After removing the stock cord I made a trip to the hardware store for an extension cord. I was a little surprised to see 14 gauge wire in the stock cord. I’m by no means an electrical engineer so I can’t say if this is good enough or not but I do believe Grizzly knows what they are doing.
With that said, I purchased a 25′ 12 gauge extension cord, transferred the black grommet to the new cord, and duplicated the wire connectors. The stock black wire has a clear rubber sleeve over the spade connection. In an attempt to leave the original wire intact in case I ever need to install it again I left the sleeve in place and used electrical tape to cover the new spade connector as well as the fork connector on the white wire.
And installed the new cord the same way the old wire was. With this setup I have 10 gauge wire coming from the electrical panel to the plug, 12 gauge wire from the plug to the switch, and 14 gauge wire from the switch to the saw.
The first part of assembly is removing the yellow shipping support bracket.
Followed by adding the center lock on both adjustment wheels as well as the handles. This is when I realized how solid this saw is. I got a “built to last” impression when putting this together. They say first impressions are the most important. Time will tell though.
Adding the wings was way easier than I read online. I put on a pair of work gloves and a shirt I didn’t care about. That way I could leave the shipping grease on until both wings were attached. Before picking up the wing I made sure the back bolt was through the hole on the wing. Then I lifted the wing into position so that my left hand was supporting the front of the wing from below and my right hand was holding the back of the wing but in a position where I could still move the bolt with my fingers. I lined it up with the mounting hole in the back and finger tightened the bolt. With the back of the wing fully supported by the finger tight bolt I could easily attach the front and middle bolts.
And the same process for the left side. I wanted to wait until this point to clean the top surfaces. I thought it would be easier when they were side by side but looking back I doubt it made a difference.
To level the wings with the saw top I clamped a straight edge to the top surface only in the front. Then I could tighten the bolts below so they would fully support the wing in the proper location but still loose enough that I could move the wing with a few taps of a rubber mallet. Using the mallet I first made sure the front and back of the wings were flush with the saw top and then bumped the wing up or down in the back to flush the top surfaces. I’m not sure if there is a specific way to get these absolutely perfect but all I did was use my bare fingers and a block of wood. A block will obviously hang if there are height issues but more importantly our fingers can detect very minute differences. Once I got the back bolt set the front two were done the same way. Repeated on the other wing. After they were set I used a straight edge to make sure the wings didn’t dip or rise on the ends. The instructions show you how to compensate for this with regular tape.
Next, the front fence rail is lightly attached.
Make sure the fence is parallel with the top of the saw. An adjustable square makes quick work of this. During the initial install I believe I had the rail set to 5/8” below the table. After I was 100% completed with the installation I had to back up and lower this rail as far down as it would go because one of the adjustment knobs on the fence was sitting higher than the table surface causing interference with the work surface.
And the back rail is installed the same way.
The fence, blade, and miter slots need to be parallel so I adjusted the fence to be parallel with the miter slot real quick. Most all stock miter gauges have quite a bit of play in them so if you clamp a dial indicator to the miter gauge like I did be sure to push it left or right in the slot to remove any slop before taking your measurement.
The fence has several points of adjustment. The four brass screws seen here adjust nylon (I think) glides. The top two are adjustments to make the fence faces perpindicular to the saw top and the back two are just to remove slack when the fence is not locked down. One feature I really like on this fence is that it has a magnetic latch on the handle. When the fence is not locked down the handle is suspended by a magnet allowing the fence to slide back and forth without any hangup or wear and tear to the front rail tubing due to the locking cam rubbing.
The blade arbor has a locking pin so only one wrench is needed to install a blade. With the blade installed I added the measuring tape to the rail. The blade still had to be adjusted to parallel with the miter slots but the adjustment is minimal. The “looking glass” on the fence has far greater adjustment than what is required at the blade so I didn’t mind doing this first. I taped the rule down where I wanted it and pealed the backing off of the right side. The peel and stick back was already split in the middle so this was an easy process. Leave the tape on the left side for placement reference and secure the right side. Then remove the tape and secure the left side.
I still haven’t removed the included blade from it’s packaging. I’m super impressed with these “cheap” Irwin Marples 50 tooth combination blades (affiliate link) so I’m using the one I’ve had for quite some time now. I measured the run-out on this blade in my RIDGID table saw and got .004” of wobble. Measuring on this saw I got .001” of wobble. I was under the impression that the blade was simply a little bent and didn’t pay much attention to it but this tells me either dust was on the arbor shaft when first measuring on the RIDGID or the machining of the Grizzly arbor is more precise. I never measured it on my Porter-Cable saw. And I installed the riving knife. I’m really not a safety nut at all but a riving knife is one safety feature I absolutely love.
Aligning the blade to the miter slot was done with a dial indicator in the same way the as the fence. To make adjustments there are 4 bolts to that hold the trunnion assembly to the bottom of the table. Not only does the saw have a removable side door for easy access but there is a small back panel that unscrews for direct access to the trunnion bolts. Here is a pic of the inside of the cabinet through the side door where you can see the trunnion bolts. The small back panel is still on in this picture. To make my adjustments I loosened the back two bolts only but by quite a bit. Enough so that I could move the trunnion by hand. Adjusting it was easy and then I slowly went back and forth between the two bolts to tighten them in place. I got the blade to within half of a .001” measurement taking multiple readings and measuring from the same point on the blade. Probably more luck than anything getting it that close! Measuring again with the blade tilted to 45 degrees I got .002″. No adjustment needed there as that’s close enough for me.
The saw comes with a regular stock insert plate and a dado insert plate. The plate itself is thin just like the other saws I’ve owned but with much less “crap” in the way preventing a homemade insert plate from being made. I think I will be able to make a zero clearance insert plate for this saw. For protection I added a thin coat of cheap paste wax on all of the top surface. Upon looking at this picture I believe the back of the cabinet is just screaming for a large Detroit Red Wings vehicle magnet….
The saw has a stock 4” dust collection port on the lower right side. Inside the cabinet is a ramp that is higher on the opposite side. I didn’t get any pictures of the inside ramp but I did tape around it to better seal it and prevent the dust collector from sucking air from below the base of the saw.
At the time of writing this article I’ve had the saw assembled for about 24 hours. I cut a few boards for my day job and so far I’m highly impressed. The saw feels like a rock. The mobile base is fluid. And I’m glad I made the purchase. If anything major changes I’ll update this article.
Those who have been following me for a bit may have a few comparison questions regarding the Porter-Cable, RIDGID, and Grizzly table saws that I’ve had/have so I’ll try and share a few thoughts. Keep in mind that the Porter-Cable was $599, the RIDGID was $529, and this Grizzly was $795 so it’s kind of like comparing apples to oranges. The RIDGID had the worst vibration and loudest motor by far. The Porter-Cable and this Grizzly seem to be similar in the lack of vibration and noise but that my be due to the Porter-Cable being on a large custom base as well as being closed in on the bottom. The Grizzly is virtually vibration free. The Porter-Cable had handy fine adjustment wheels on the fence which neither of the other saws have but the single rail t-square style fence that this Grizzly has blows the other two fence systems out of the water. The RIDGID did have the smoothest rolling mobile base of the three (aftermarket Shop Fox mobile base on the Grizzly). The Grizzly has cast iron wings and both of the others had stamped steel. I like the switch location of the Grizzly and RIDGID better than the Porter-Cable but I think most of that was due to making the mobile base on the Porter-Cable that kinda got in the way of the switch operation. The riving knife and blade removal are much better on the Grizzly than both the others. If I were to rank 100% perfect versions of all three saws the Grizzly wins by leaps and bounds, then my Porter-Cable, and lastly the RIDGID.