Grizzly G0715P Hybrid Table Saw

UPDATE After one week of use the EXACT same problem I was having with the Ridgid appeared. When raising and lowering the blade the blade shifts at the back end. Grizzly contacted me wanting the saw back in exchange for a new one of the same model that will be inspected for the issue before it leaves. I do not want to deal with that problem again so I’ll get something else. I haven’t ordered yet so I’m not 100% positive but I’m probably getting a G0690 cabinet saw that has cabinet mounted trunnions. So far I have been pretty pleased with Grizzly’s customer service with this. Here’s a video where I actually measured the deflection of the G0715P:

Just as I said when I wrote my Grizzly bandsaw article, let me start off by saying I have no affiliation with Grizzly Industrial. After a disapointing experience with a RIDGID R4512 table saw I decided to spend a little more and get something of greater quality. Grizzly has been in business for quite some time now and has a long reputation for quality tools and service after the sale. So, I purchased a Grizzly G0715P Hybrid Table Saw. To be honest, the only reason I even looked at the Grizzly table saw lineup was because of how pleased I am with my bandsaw purchase.

Grizzly G0715P Hybrid Table Saw

This isn’t a review. I won’t go over the ins and outs of this saw but rather will show you some high points and walk you through my first night with the saw. The saw and wings come in one large box on a small pallet. The fence is in it’s own box and the fence rails in their own box. With the help of an appliance dolly I was able to move this by myself.

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The saw box is nothing but thick cardboard panels that really look like they can take a beating. Luckily nothing in my shipment was damaged nor did the boxes look like they were beat up at all.

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The wings are packaged on top of the saw table and everything else is stored on the inside.

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After removing everything from the inside of the cabinet, removing the two bolts that held it to the pallet, and placing the wings on another work surface I wanted to get the saw on my Shop Fox mobile base. This was the only part of the build I was dreading from the start. Everything I have read said to get help with this and its crazy heavy. The shipping weight from Grizzly is 416 pounds but that includes the fence boxes as well as everything else I already removed. It ended up being incredibly easy with barely a struggle. I broke the side off of the pallet in hopes to just slide it into place and put a hardwood strip across the far side of the mobile base to support one end as I walked it side to side over the base.

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Because I leaned the saw on one side and walked it back and forth the process was simple.

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With one side in place I lifted up the supported side and slid the hardwood strip out. I never had to pick up the entire weight of the saw this way.

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Before getting into the instruction manual and proceeding with assembly I knew I was going to change up the power situation. The saw comes pre-wired for 220v operation. Before receiving the saw I planned to make an extension cord to run from the 220v range plug in the “kitchen” of my shop to the saw. I decided it would be better to eliminate one of the connection points and just run the new extension cord right to the saw switch. After removing the stock cord I made a trip to the hardware store for an extension cord. I was a little surprised to see 14 gauge wire in the stock cord. I’m by no means an electrical engineer so I can’t say if this is good enough or not but I do believe Grizzly knows what they are doing.

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With that said, I purchased a 25′ 12 gauge extension cord, transferred the black grommet to the new cord, and duplicated the wire connectors. The stock black wire has a clear rubber sleeve over the spade connection. In an attempt to leave the original wire intact in case I ever need to install it again I left the sleeve in place and used electrical tape to cover the new spade connector as well as the fork connector on the white wire.

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And installed the new cord the same way the old wire was. With this setup I have 10 gauge wire coming from the electrical panel to the plug, 12 gauge wire from the plug to the switch, and 14 gauge wire from the switch to the saw.

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The first part of assembly is removing the yellow shipping support bracket.

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Followed by adding the center lock on both adjustment wheels as well as the handles. This is when I realized how solid this saw is. I got a “built to last” impression when putting this together. They say first impressions are the most important. Time will tell though.

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Adding the wings was way easier than I read online. I put on a pair of work gloves and a shirt I didn’t care about. That way I could leave the shipping grease on until both wings were attached. Before picking up the wing I made sure the back bolt was through the hole on the wing. Then I lifted the wing into position so that my left hand was supporting the front of the wing from below and my right hand was holding the back of the wing but in a position where I could still move the bolt with my fingers. I lined it up with the mounting hole in the back and finger tightened the bolt. With the back of the wing fully supported by the finger tight bolt I could easily attach the front and middle bolts.

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And the same process for the left side. I wanted to wait until this point to clean the top surfaces. I thought it would be easier when they were side by side but looking back I doubt it made a difference.

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To level the wings with the saw top I clamped a straight edge to the top surface only in the front. Then I could tighten the bolts below so they would fully support the wing in the proper location but still loose enough that I could move the wing with a few taps of a rubber mallet. Using the mallet I first made sure the front and back of the wings were flush with the saw top and then bumped the wing up or down in the back to flush the top surfaces. I’m not sure if there is a specific way to get these absolutely perfect but all I did was use my bare fingers and a block of wood. A block will obviously hang if there are height issues but more importantly our fingers can detect very minute differences. Once I got the back bolt set the front two were done the same way. Repeated on the other wing. After they were set I used a straight edge to make sure the wings didn’t dip or rise on the ends. The instructions show you how to compensate for this with regular tape.

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Next, the front fence rail is lightly attached.

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Make sure the fence is parallel with the top of the saw. An adjustable square makes quick work of this. During the initial install I believe I had the rail set to 5/8” below the table. After I was 100% completed with the installation I had to back up and lower this rail as far down as it would go because one of the adjustment knobs on the fence was sitting higher than the table surface causing interference with the work surface.

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And the back rail is installed the same way.

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The fence, blade, and miter slots need to be parallel so I adjusted the fence to be parallel with the miter slot real quick. Most all stock miter gauges have quite a bit of play in them so if you clamp a dial indicator to the miter gauge like I did be sure to push it left or right in the slot to remove any slop before taking your measurement.

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The fence has several points of adjustment. The four brass screws seen here adjust nylon (I think) glides. The top two are adjustments to make the fence faces perpindicular to the saw top and the back two are just to remove slack when the fence is not locked down. One feature I really like on this fence is that it has a magnetic latch on the handle. When the fence is not locked down the handle is suspended by a magnet allowing the fence to slide back and forth without any hangup or wear and tear to the front rail tubing due to the locking cam rubbing.

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The blade arbor has a locking pin so only one wrench is needed to install a blade. With the blade installed I added the measuring tape to the rail. The blade still had to be adjusted to parallel with the miter slots but the adjustment is minimal. The “looking glass” on the fence has far greater adjustment than what is required at the blade so I didn’t mind doing this first. I taped the rule down where I wanted it and pealed the backing off of the right side. The peel and stick back was already split in the middle so this was an easy process. Leave the tape on the left side for placement reference and secure the right side. Then remove the tape and secure the left side.

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I still haven’t removed the included blade from it’s packaging. I’m super impressed with these “cheap” Irwin Marples 50 tooth combination blades (affiliate link) so I’m using the one I’ve had for quite some time now. I measured the run-out on this blade in my RIDGID table saw and got .004” of wobble. Measuring on this saw I got .001” of wobble. I was under the impression that the blade was simply a little bent and didn’t pay much attention to it but this tells me either dust was on the arbor shaft when first measuring on the RIDGID or the machining of the Grizzly arbor is more precise. I never measured it on my Porter-Cable saw. And I installed the riving knife. I’m really not a safety nut at all but a riving knife is one safety feature I absolutely love.

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Aligning the blade to the miter slot was done with a dial indicator in the same way the as the fence. To make adjustments there are 4 bolts to that hold the trunnion assembly to the bottom of the table. Not only does the saw have a removable side door for easy access but there is a small back panel that unscrews for direct access to the trunnion bolts. Here is a pic of the inside of the cabinet through the side door where you can see the trunnion bolts. The small back panel is still on in this picture. To make my adjustments I loosened the back two bolts only but by quite a bit. Enough so that I could move the trunnion by hand. Adjusting it was easy and then I slowly went back and forth between the two bolts to tighten them in place. I got the blade to within half of a .001” measurement taking multiple readings and measuring from the same point on the blade. Probably more luck than anything getting it that close! Measuring again with the blade tilted to 45 degrees I got .002″. No adjustment needed there as that’s close enough for me.

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The saw comes with a regular stock insert plate and a dado insert plate. The plate itself is thin just like the other saws I’ve owned but with much less “crap” in the way preventing a homemade insert plate from being made. I think I will be able to make a zero clearance insert plate for this saw. For protection I added a thin coat of cheap paste wax on all of the top surface. Upon looking at this picture I believe the back of the cabinet is just screaming for a large Detroit Red Wings vehicle magnet….

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The saw has a stock 4” dust collection port on the lower right side. Inside the cabinet is a ramp that is higher on the opposite side. I didn’t get any pictures of the inside ramp but I did tape around it to better seal it and prevent the dust collector from sucking air from below the base of the saw.

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At the time of writing this article I’ve had the saw assembled for about 24 hours. I cut a few boards for my day job and so far I’m highly impressed. The saw feels like a rock. The mobile base is fluid. And I’m glad I made the purchase. If anything major changes I’ll update this article.

Those who have been following me for a bit may have a few comparison questions regarding the Porter-Cable, RIDGID, and Grizzly table saws that I’ve had/have so I’ll try and share a few thoughts. Keep in mind that the Porter-Cable was $599, the RIDGID was $529, and this Grizzly was $795 so it’s kind of like comparing apples to oranges. The RIDGID had the worst vibration and loudest motor by far. The Porter-Cable and this Grizzly seem to be similar in the lack of vibration and noise but that my be due to the Porter-Cable being on a large custom base as well as being closed in on the bottom. The Grizzly is virtually vibration free. The Porter-Cable had handy fine adjustment wheels on the fence which neither of the other saws have but the single rail t-square style fence that this Grizzly has blows the other two fence systems out of the water. The RIDGID did have the smoothest rolling mobile base of the three (aftermarket Shop Fox mobile base on the Grizzly). The Grizzly has cast iron wings and both of the others had stamped steel. I like the switch location of the Grizzly and RIDGID better than the Porter-Cable but I think most of that was due to making the mobile base on the Porter-Cable that kinda got in the way of the switch operation. The riving knife and blade removal are much better on the Grizzly than both the others. If I were to rank 100% perfect versions of all three saws the Grizzly wins by leaps and bounds, then my Porter-Cable, and lastly the RIDGID.

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  1. Awesome new saw Jay! I was planning to get the Ridgid and now am leaning towards your new advice…. Give us an update after a few weeks to let us know how you are liking it. Thanks! – Pete

  2. Will I just finished setting up my new Rigid R4512. I love it so far and not seen any issues yet. It was the m ost I could afford so I will do my best. Your review of the Rigid was very helpful in making my decision. We all have to draw the line somewhere and mine was made and am looking forward to hearing more on your new Grizzley

  3. Great article Jay. Thanks for all of the detail. I was surprised that you ranked the Porter Cable as better overall than the Ridgid. Too bad I missed out on the floor model Porter Cable when my local Lowes switched to Delta. It sold for 250.00 but I already had the Ridgid saw at the time. Love my Grizzly bandsaw but I am having issues with the thrust bearing. I may pick your brain on that. I think it’s basically the saw you have.

  4. Nice saw Jay. And you did well going with the 12 gauge wire. I’m surprised also they only had 14 gauge for the extension cord. Thanks for the assembly shots, and description.

  5. Funny, After a similar experience I was looking at this very saw, getting by with a DW744x which is great but a bit small for a shop. Can’t wait to see that Wings decal on it! Gooo Wings!

    • I really like the fact that its strong enough to handle everything I put at it but it doesn’t take up an insane amount of space. Very solid too.

  6. Jay,

    Please do a follow up on this, I would like to hear your take after some use before I make my decision.

  7. Great article. I am still new to wood working and have a very low-end Skil from Lowe’s. It has alignment issues, square issues, trunion issues and vibration issues. Lol. But, I love using it all the same. Someday, I hope to play in the big leagues and get a real saw. Lol. And the only thing better than a Red Wings sticker would be a Tiger’s sticker! #alwaysatiger

    • My first table saw was a $99 benchtop Skil from Lowes. That thing would walk around the shop floor by itself when turned on. Be safe with yours!

  8. YES, Red wings logo needed! Good luck with the new saw Jay. Hope it works out better for you. In the next year or so I hope to upgrade my table saw. Will stay tuned for updates and reviews!

      • Lions Tigers, oh boy your Summers and Falls into Winter must be sooo disapointing for you. No wonder you make such great videos. No need to watch sports then! j/k. I’m a Ginats fan for football, very bad year, and a Mets fan so yeah, my disapointment starts in a couple of weeks with them.

  9. I’m looking to upgrade to a nicer saw, and you almost had me talked into the Ridgid before the issues. So, my next choice was the 0715, which you just got. I think its the right one for me.

    The reason #14 AWG is OK is because it only draws 8 amps at 240V and #14 is good for 15 amps per NEC. If you hooked it to 120V it draws 16 Amps and #12 would barely be big enough. #12 is good for 20 Amps, but technically your not supposed to have a continuous load over 80%, which is 16 Amps. I would put it on #10’s if hooked up to 120V.

  10. Looking good ! Keep us updated on this one, Im in the market to replace my crapsman TS and this one is on the list. Thanks Tim L.

  11. Hey Jay,
    Bought this saw in January. You should at least test out the stock blade. I was amazed. I had the same luck you did with my saw alinement. I was about to buy a super expensive blade but I’m glad I held off till after my first test cut. The cut had a sheen and not a single tool mark. I don’t know how long it’ll stay sharp but for now I’m loving how little work my edges need.

  12. The electric cord: most people think that 220v is more power than 110v and would need a bigger wire. The truth is the opposite. The full-load rating of this grizzly G0715P saw is 16 amps at 110v and 8 amps at 220v. So using 220 volts actually relieves the strain on the wire.

    Think of it like a conveyor belt supplying rocks for a machine. The machine needs 100 rocks per minute to do its job. If the conveyor is slow (like 110v of electricity is much slower than 220v) the belt must be wider across to get enough rocks to the machine every minute. If the conveyor belt is much faster (like 220v) the belt can be thinner and still provide enough rocks to keep the machine running.

    14 gauge wire can actually handle up to 25 amps(at any volts). For safety, the code only allows 14 gauge wires to carry up to 15 amps. 12 gauge is good for 30 amps but only allowed 20 amps. 10 gauge is good for 40 amps but only allowed 30 amps.

    The wiring that grizzly and Jay used is extremely safe and not even close to an overload.

    I look forward to hearing more about this saw after you have used for a while.

      • Jay,

        I started looking at the Ridgid table saw and was discouraged by the reviews I had read. Drew Short mention you got a Ridgid table saw, so Istarted looking at them again. I am glad I had waited. So far my choices are down to the Bosch 4100 or the new Delta 36-725 from Lowe’s. It will be still a while before I make my purchase, have to save up the funds.

        Jay, I thank you for your videos. I have been watching for a little while as well as Drew Short, Steve Ramsey, and a couple others. It is because of you guys, I am wanting to get into woodworking. My woodworking will be more as a hobby and stress reliever than anything else.

        ps like your sketchup vid’s also.

    • Tom, I like how you explained the difference between 110v and 220v. I heard 200v would draw less amps and your equipment would run better than 110v and was not sure why. Now I know. Thanks.


  13. I read through the comments, I too am getting ready to head to Grizzly to place my order for several pieces of shop equipment. What is Grizzly’s response to the issue you have pointed out.

    • I contacted them via 2 emails to give them this video and a phone call on Monday and they said they will get back with me. Today (Thursday) I received and automated message saying they are forwarding my pictures and information to the appropriate personnel. There was never any pictures so that tells me its just an automated message to say they are “working” on it.

  14. which saw did you like best Rigid or this one, what made you change, the issue with the Rigid was that rare? thanks

  15. Jay, what is the latest on your saw issue? On the Ridgid R4512 I’ve read that there has been changes to the casting and that newer saws should not have this issue.

    • G0715p returned. G0690 will be here Monday. Great Grizzly customer service.

      I read that the newer ones should be fixed on the R4512 as well but the one I had was manufactured after the supposed fix date so I don’t know. Oh well.

      • Are you going to do a article on the G0690? Also how was it leveling the wings on
        the G0715P? seemed like it was a little trial and error. would you do anything different?

        • I might do an article on the 690. Tired of sounding like a tool commercial! If I do it will be in a month or two. So far so good with it though. Leveling the wings is simple. Wouldn’t do anything different. Very happy with the 690

  16. Excellent review Thanks Jay here on Vancouver Island in Canada we have trouble getting good prices on Grizzly tools i also looked at the Rigid 4512 i’ll keep watching for your next review .
    I wonder if Rigid would verify shipping dates for there now revamped 4512 issue ??
    I’ll let you know
    cheers —

  17. I also purchased the G0715P and received a 400 boat anchor. It bogged down on anything thicker than 1/4″ plywood. With only using it about 5 times, the belt broke. I found the motor bearing were bad. It has been 2 months since I first contacted Grizzly about this and the new motor finally arrived today. It is a reconditioned, not new motor where the fan cover is bent and dragging on the fan. The capacitor cover is broke and the paint looks like it was dragged behind a truck. They only decided to send a new motor after I told them to come get the saw and refund my money. I am NOT at all pleased the quality of the saw OR the customer service.

  18. I use a $25 Ryobi I got at a flea market. I built a stand,48in top and a fence for it and it does what I ask. been looking for a hybrid this might be the one. I read some reviews on the problem you had with the rigid and to passed on it.

  19. Can any one answer this question?
    Has Grizzly addressed and corrected this issue ? I am so bummed , This saw was going to be my next purchase. I sure don’t want to pay any amount of money for something that is going to stress me out. UGH.
    Thanks in advance folks!

      • I was hoping out of your gazallions of subscribers that somebody might of heard something…even if it’s a
        I guess I’ll try contacting grizzly and see if they even know that issue exists…Thanks for the quick response! You really keep up on this don’t you?
        And BTW , Thanks!!!

        • I too am looking seriously at this saw & don’t want any hassles
          so I questioned grizzly about the issues.

          My email:

          Trying to decide on possibly the G0715P table saw.
          There has been talk in some forums of an alignment problem.
          Can you give me updated information on this?

          Grizzly’s response:

          Thank you for your email dated June 23, 2015.

          The G0715P Hybrid Table Saw’s all should be within tolerances for any amount of movement in the blade when elevating the blade. This was an issue and has been corrected, completely, to my knowledge. If the saw is not within tolerances, it is typically caused by one of two things. Either the machine was not handled properly on the way to its destination and the trunnions need to be tightened up, or the casting is pressing against one of the stops, at maximum travel in one direction or the other.

          If we may be of any further assistance, please do not hesitate to contact us. You are a valued customer, and we look forward to serving your future woodworking and metalworking needs.


          Vince C.
          Technical Service
          Grizzly Industrial, Inc.
          EN #901

  20. That’s what scares me the most, That the information isn’t being shared about a known defect. I guess if I get the typical “duh” answer..I’ll have to look into saving a few more bucks and go the same route you did..or maybe look at different manufacturers…Thanks again!

  21. Jay, what were your concerns with the 715 dust collection? I too have some issues being that the dust collection is non-exsistant, no matter what I try, dust flies everywhere except into the dust collector!

    • I didn’t have this saw for long so I don’t remember much about the dust collection specifics. No saw would be 100% dust free without an over the blade dust guard though.

  22. Yes I understand what you are referring to in regards to an over the blade DCS. My question/concern with the 715 is that the dust just builds up inside the cabinet and does’t extract via a DCS with a new filter and no leaks in any of the hoses. ( my very old craftsmanTS with a dust shroud underneath the blade worked great,). Eventually dust begins to fly everywhere from the build . How does your DCS work with the 690?

    Anyway, I enjoy your videos very much!

  23. Your article was interesting, especially on addressing the extension cord issue….i even considered upgrading to a magnetic switch. After reading all the reviews on the Ridgid 4512, I checked with HD stock. The date codes were October of 2014 so I decided to take a chance on assurance that i would not have a problem and I did not. It was tricky aligning the blade parallel to the miter slots…just followed instructions and some common sense with the trunnions. Blade elevation alignment was not a problem either. First thing I did was get some aftermarket throat plates. Saw runs quiet, smooth, and has good fence.
    HD seemed to be anxious to sell these with all the previous, deserved bad reviews. They even had the Pro service deliver it into my garage for $5. As for a jointer, i went with the Grizzly G0452P, a great unit.

  24. You say that on the G0715P saw that the blade shifts when you raise and lower the blade. Ok, the saw is not perfect, but is this error acceptable for normal cabinetry wood working tolerances? What does Grizzly say that the acceptable magnitude of shift for the G0715P should be? I just ordered one, and I too would like the saw to be perfect, but I am more interested if it can produce accurate cuts , miters and bevels which would be considered to be professionally reasonable and acceptable.

  25. Where did you get the pocket hole tool? I can not find one online like that. I only found the smaller version

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