Vlog #8: Remote Switch, Upcoming Projects, GO WINGS!

Show Notes

  • My remote switch isn’t dead…but the battery was
  • Upcoming content – chisel sharpening station for crappy chisels, my planer setup article, table saw article, miter saw/pocket hole machine station
  • Forgot about giving away a tool. I’ll do that next week
  • Previous vlog video: click here

 

 

27 COMMENTS

  1. Hi Jay in your Vlog you talked about getting a new miter saw, do you have any plans for your old one? Maybe a online give away? Love your videos aspeshely the sketch up ones I have learned a lot about sketch up just from watching them.

    • Close to home. I grew up at 5 and Middlebelt. Fun fact; They just announced that Middlebelt is actually two words Middle Belt. And Beachdaily is actually Beach-Daily. They changed the signs when working on 96 recently and its got a slight controversy started lol. Apparently they were spelled wrong for years and years.

  2. Good luck on setting up your LLC. The cheapest way I know of now is going threw LegalZome.com. When I started an LLC back about 5 years ago it cost me $3400.00 which was a big hit on my pocketbook. I didn’t know about that website at the time.

    • That sounds like a high price as when i was required to go LLC here in minnesota to get paid for my work as a finish carpenter subcontractor as required by law it cost me $150 going through a lawyer. This was done in 2001or 2002

  3. why wouldn’t you include the cutlist for each project as part of sketchup video? it’d be nice to see the project we just created broken apart. seems quick enough to do. i know you have a separate video for it but i would think for many of us it would be useful (and much easier than finding the other video) to watch you break apart the project we just created.

    • Because I normally do the sketchup model and cutlist before I make the video. The video is generally the second time making the project in SketchUp. I’ll show you how I do the cutlist once but after that it’s up to you to do it :) Good practice for you :)

  4. I’ve never been to Michigan, but I know where Livonia is. I have a friend that lives there.

    When you say “sanding sealer” are you actually referring to “pre-stain conditioner”? Sanding sealer goes on after the stain and before the lacquer. Pre-stain conditioner is before the stain and is supposed to prevent blotching, especially with soft woods like pine and birch. I work almost exclusively in birch with some pine and stain a lot of my products for customers. I never use the pre-stain conditioner (ain’t nobody got time for that) and still get decent results. Different color stains behave differently but with experience you can avoid the worst of the blotching just by working quickly and in the right pattern being careful not to splatter the stain or let it run on to areas you’re not working on yet. I’ve yet to have a customer complain about the stain job.

    I use tung oil for a sealer so I don’t have any need for sanding sealer. Occasionally I’ll use lacquer on personal projects and I still don’t use a sanding sealer. From what I’ve read it’s just supposed to be easier to sand smooth without clogging the sandpaper than lacquer. If that isn’t an issue an extra coat of lacquer is the same thing as a coat of sanding sealer.

      • Tung oil probably isn’t the best choice for something like these bathroom vanities. It takes a lot of coats to build to any kind of durable surface. I’d recommend trying it on small projects like boxes, candle holders, etc. first. Be aware that the “tung oil finish” sold in the box stores is not pure tung oil and doesn’t behave at all like it. I buy mine from the Real Milk Paint Company. They are the cheapest I’ve found online and the quality is top notch. They also have a lot of good information on uses and application on the website.

        If you’re set up for spraying and comfortable with it then lacquer is probably the way to go on larger projects. I’m not and with my business I can’t wait for a good weather day to work outside. What I sell is gun racks and tung oil is fine since they don’t get a lot of moisture and any wear from use would likely chip a harder finish. I also think the matte finish looks better with firearms which typically tend to be glossy themselves. One big drawback to tung oil is it’s slow to cure. I typically seal on Friday or Saturday and let it dry under fans until Monday and then pack and ship. Even then it’s not fully cured for 2 to 4 weeks.

  5. Jay, Thank you for the videos. I enjoy and pick up a little something on every one of them. Really enjoy your instructional sketch up videos as well.

  6. One way to check your remote, if it sends an infrared signal (like a TV remote), is to point the remote at the camera on your phone, press the on/off button. Your camera will show you the infrared blast from your remote. If no blast, check your batteries.

  7. Another tool question…I’m looking to buy a new Bandsaw. What do you have? Are you happy with it? Do you have a recommendation? Trying to flip some tools I don’t use to pay for the new bandsaw.

  8. Jay, total beginner to woodworking but love every aspect of your site and all its content. Thank you so much for info and inspiration. Go Wings! Not from Detrout but close Sandusky, Ohio.

  9. Thanks for providing your plans and especially the SketchUp. I have trouble keeping up, but they really help me in learning the S/W and will be a benefit on my own projects. Never lived in MI, but we were big Wings fans for many years. Still think Steve Yzerman is/was one of the best. Thanks again and good luck in your future goals. I’ll be following. Rick

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