This is a project that can be adapted and transformed into all kinds of stuff. I really want to see what you come up with on this one. The two that I made cost around $70 combined. You will need two 1x12x96″ boards, 21 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, wood glue, two hinges, and a finish of your choice. I used Minwax Ipswich Pine stain and top coated it with Minwax Polycrylic (affiliate links). I used pocket hole screws at a few locations in this project but if you do not have a pocket hole jig you can build this entire cabinet with butt joints, glue, and brad nails. Here is a downloadable .zip file containing all of these images in a higher resolution as well as a few printer friendly images: CLICK HERE. This is a relatively straight forward build so lets get started.
To start, cut all of your pieces according to the cutlist. The front piece of the lid assembly, the actual lid, and the top piece all receive angled cuts on one face. The cutlist shows all of these pieces with their longest dimensions so the angled cuts cans be made after cutting to initial size.
Next, assemble the four legs of the can. Glue and brad nails will hold this with no problem. Regular butt joints here.
I cut a slight detail on the bottom of my legs but this step is optional. I recommend cutting some type of detail here as a can with 4 corners touching the floor is less likely to wobble than a can with four solid legs if the floor happens to have a bump in it.
With the can assembled, drill pocket holes in the bottom of your base piece. Flip the can over and attach it from below. Make sure you have the height of the base set so that you cannot see it through your detail cut.
The lid assembly is pretty simple. Drill two pocket holes on each end of the side pieces to attach the front and back. I also drilled a vertical pocket hole on the side pieces where the top will rest. The back piece should get three vertical pocket holes as well to attach the top. Make sure all of the pocket holes are on the inside when you assemble. Again, pocket holes are just an option. Use glue and brads if you prefer.
Attach the top piece.
With the top attached, use glue and brad nails to attach the support strips. This is how the lid will sit on the can. This design calls for them to be spaced two inches from the bottom of the lid assembly. It’s OK if your strips do not reach end to end.
TIP: After attaching one of the support strips place the lid assembly on the can and use the can to line up the opposite side strip. Then attach the remaining support strips with the lid assembly still sitting on the can. This will ensure that the lid will not wobble on top of the can if one of your can pieces happens to be slightly misaligned.
Attach the lid using your two hinges. Once everything fits the way it should, take the lid and hinges back off and sand the entire trash can. Apply your stain and finish of choice and you are done.
Like I said, this is an extremely customizable project. You can even turn it into something completely different. Replace the front leg for a couple shelves and add a paper stop on top and you have an instant podium (well, maybe make it higher too!). You can even make a couple for onions and potatoes. Or, make some type of base with a cut out and have an automatic dog feeder! The options are limitless and I am sure you have some creative thought waiting to be used. Please turn this project into your own. I’d love to see what you come up with!