I made this drill press table in about 6 hours. It features four long drawers for storage, an open center shelf, an adjustable fence, and a sacrificial plate in the middle. The layout diagram shows that you will need one 4’x4′ piece of ¾” plywood, one 2’x4′ piece of 1/2” plywood, and one 2’x2′ piece of 1/4” plywood. I miscalculated my scrap 1/2” plywood when I made mine so I had to use 3/4” plywood for everything except the drawer bottoms. If you follow the plans your drawers should be just a tad bigger than mine on the inside. You will also need two 3-1/2” long carriage bolts with some type of screw down knob for the fence. Either homemade or store bought will be fine. The diameter of the carriage bolts aren’t incredibly important. I used 5/16” diameter carriage bolts because that’s what I had laying around but you could use 1/4” as well. Add some drawer pulls, glue, bolts to mount it to your stock drill press table, and 1-1/4” regular and pocket hole screws and your good to go.
Cut All Of Your Parts
Cut everything except the second top pieces according to the layout diagram. You will cut the second top pieces after you know the spacing of your mounting bolts. (larger image in the download at the end)
Prepare For Assembly
It’s a good idea to go ahead and glue your two fence pieces together first. That way they will be dried and strong enough to work with when it comes time to drill the mounting holes in them. I made sure not to go overboard with glue so I wouldn’t have any squeeze out on top or bottom. I also clamped blocks to the top and bottom to make sure everything stayed lined up.
The vertical frame pieces will attach to the top and bottom via pocket holes. Drill three pocket holes on the top and bottom of one side to all four of the vertical pieces. A pocket hole jig is one of the first tools I will recommend for any DIY’er out there. I’ve had mine for years and love it. If you do not want to use pocket hole screws on this project you can simply cut corresponding dados and rabbets in the top and bottom pieces to accept the vertical pieces. Note that if you choose rabbets and dados for the primary construction you will have to adjust your drawer sizes accordingly. Use some scrap from your cuttings earlier to make 4 drawer runners that are 1/2”x1/2”. Attach these to the center of the vertical pieces on the same side as the pocket holes.
Attach all four of your vertical pieces to the bottom side of the top with glue and pocket hole screws. The drawer parts in this plan are sized for the spacing noted in this diagram. My stock drill press table is 11-7/8” in diameter so if yours is bigger you will have to modify the plan accordingly. I used a couple scrap blocks that were 7-1/2” long to aid in locating the center two verticals.
Attach The Bottom
For those who used pocket hole screws as I did you will notice that the remaining screws will be difficult to get to. If you have a right angle drill and a short driver you might be able to get to these. I do not have a right angle drill so I had to drill access holes in the top. It’s a good idea to take some time here to locate where to drill the holes. With the holes drilled you should be able to get everything with an extension on your drill (see video).
At this point you can drill the mounting holes in the top to mount it to the drill press table. I made countersunk holes and used four carriage bolts to attach the wood table to the stock metal table. As you can see in the picture below this setup interferes with my stock table height adjustment handle. This is OK as I can still use a 1/2″ wrench to operate the lift mechanism. This handle will be extended to the side of the new table in a future project.
Adding The Second Top
The final top will consist of 5 pieces. You can now cut the outside two pieces at 4” wide. Next, determine what width the center piece needs to be in order to cover up your mounting bolts. The center piece is sacrificial and will just float in place to allow access to the mounting bolts for easy removal of the table as needed. You should be able to use the measurements on the layout diagram as a good starting point to determine the size of yours. With all of your pieces cut, clamp the center piece in the center of the table. Layout your remaining top pieces and prepare for the rabbet cuts. The size of the rabbet will be determined by the carriage bolts you chose for the fence. When two rabbets are put together you will form a t-track (see video or diagram). Cut all four rabbets.
With the center piece still clamped place the second piece tightly up against it with a single piece of paper acting as a shim between them. Screw this piece down with the rabbet on the outside. Next, space your outside 4” pieces so that the adjacent rabbets form the t-track. Make sure there is enough room for the carriage bolts to slide freely in the t-track. Screw this piece down.
Add The Fence
The fence should be dry and ready to work with now. Mark and drill holes in the top of the fence aligned with the center of the t-track for your carriage bolts. I made the holes about 1/8” wider than the bolt to reduce binding when moving the fence. Slide your carriage bolts into the t-track, drop on your fence, and add your locking nuts. Check to see that everything is working the way it should.
Build The Drawers
There are hundreds of ways to build drawers. Choose whatever method you prefer. If you have never built any drawers before you can build them the way I did in the video or you can check out this other video I made on drawer construction.
Add The Drawer Fronts
Attach the drawer fronts and your drawer pulls. That should be it!
Download The Plan
Although this plan is free to you remember that it isn’t free to produce. If you would like to show your thanks please consider using the donate button at the bottom of this page. If you liked this project and found it useful please share it so others can do so as well. Thanks for stopping by folks and have a great day!